FRIENDS of mine are getting married in a few weeks and instead of a standard wedding register they are getting a local wine retailer to put the beginnings of a cellar together for them. Although the cellaring potential of many types of red wine are well known, it’s easy to forget about balancing out a cellar with white as well. Many white wines are made to drink young and do not benefit from time in the cellar, but there are some varieties that can truly delight with careful ageing. As with red wines, they can grow in complexity, become more integrated and develop some unique secondary characters.
As with red wines, some elements that determine the ageability of a white wine are tannins, acidity, and a sufficient fruit character  in youth. Tannins are derived from the skins and pips of grapes and from oak treatment. As white wines are not usually left on their skins during fermentation in the way red wines are, any tannins present in a white wine will largely come from oak. Varieties that are often fermented or matured in oak will have a greater chance of maturing gracefully with age. Chardonnay is a good example. The levels of acidity and fruitiness can be determined by a number of factors including, but not limited to, the type of soils and the climate in which the grapes are grown (known as terroir), decisions made about when the grapes are picked, and the grape variety’s inherent characteristics.
Two white varieties that I particularly enjoy with a bit of bottle age, and which are woefully neglected are Riesling and Semillon. These can be some of the most long-lived white wines made, and are deserving of a place in any cellar. Neither of these ordinarily see any oak, so their notable durability is largely due to their natural high acidity and intense fruit characters. As a wine ages, acidity reduces, fruit characters can change and give way to some more savoury notes.  Secondary characters should emerge. In Riesling this is often characterised by a “kerosene” note, and in Semillon lanolin, asparagus and some smoky notes are common. Both may develop a honeyed note and a certain nuttiness.
I tasted several vintages of the two Rieslings produced by Martinborough Vineyard. I particularly enjoyed the development of the Manu Riesling, which is in a medium style.
Martinborough Vineyard Manu Riesling 2010 is showing sweet lemons and limes with soft sherbetty notes and heady white florals on the nose. Lively acidity freshens the palate, balancing the sweetness and a slightly tart marmalade notes comes out on the finish. $29.00
Martinborough Vineyard Manu 2006 demonstrates well the development path that a sweeter Riesling can take. The fruit is heading more towards rich, heady apricot a full texture and some nutty notes along with a promise of kerosene. This is generally not available, but a begging note to the vineyard may yield results.
 Some of the finest Semillons come from the Hunter Valley, but some delightful examples are coming out of Margaret River in Western Australia. I tried two Semillons from Moss Wood, a boutique Margaret Valley producer, with a divide of 10 years between them.
Moss Wood Semillon 2011 - stacked with citrus fruit (lemon and lime) and tart granny smith apples, this also showed some floral notes, a certain herbaceousness and subtle savoury characters. Brisk, clean acidity makes this very refreshing, but probably best to either pair with food or cellar for a decade until it evolves into this
Moss Wood Semillon 2001 - time has woven magic with this wine, and the array of secondary characters typical of Semillon have emerged. Smoke, caramel, asparagus, lanolin and toffee apple all hit the nose. The toffee notes are more pronounced on the palate with fig notes developing. The acidity has softened, giving a more creamy mouth feel, though it’s still fresh. Good quality Semillons like this can develop over 20 years, though 10 is a good bet.
I hope my friends are given some Semillon and Riesling in their cellar mix to toast a 10th and then 20th anniversay