Scents and sensibility
Claudine Earley21/10/2009 7:58:00 a.m.
FLORAL aromas are the sign of a good wine.
The scent of blooms indicates the use of physiologically ripe grapes. A good pinot noir, for example, might smell ever so slightly of carnations.
Tim Heath of Cloudy Bay is a master at creating such fragrant wines. His Cloudy Bay Pinot Gris 2008 ($32) smells of night-scented stock: sweet icing sugar florals, with dried pear and underlying spiciness. Cloudy Bay Gewurztraminer 2007 ($32) is similarly sensuous. It shows the rose petal fragrances typical of the variety, but it’s subtle – less Nana’s talc, more delicate spring rose blossom.
Fallen ripe pear scented Cloudy Bay “Pelorus” 2005 ($48) has such tiny soft bubbles you’d think it was champagne. We tried it with cheese to see what flavours we’d get – with Kapiti Kikorangi we tasted sweet peach and pear spiked mountain water, while port wine cheddar gave us nut nougat and toasted almonds.
New: Mud House has released a selection of single vineyard pearlers under the Curio label. My pick of the bunch is Curio d’Auvergne Vineyard Wairau Valley Marlborough Gewurztraminer 2008 ($27.90). It smells so good you don’t want to stop sniffing the harmonious mix of musk rose, mango and cloves. On the palate it’s like sucking on turkish delight before it sets: luscious fruit flavours with silky texture made all the more interesting from barrel fermentation and wild yeast.
Bargain of the Week: Jacob’s Creek Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 2006 ($19.95) picked up a silver at the recent Liquorland Top 100. It’s all blackcurrents and raspberries on the fruit side, balanced by dark licoricey tannins and gravelly minerality. Wonderful velvety texture.
The scent of blooms indicates the use of physiologically ripe grapes. A good pinot noir, for example, might smell ever so slightly of carnations.
Tim Heath of Cloudy Bay is a master at creating such fragrant wines. His Cloudy Bay Pinot Gris 2008 ($32) smells of night-scented stock: sweet icing sugar florals, with dried pear and underlying spiciness. Cloudy Bay Gewurztraminer 2007 ($32) is similarly sensuous. It shows the rose petal fragrances typical of the variety, but it’s subtle – less Nana’s talc, more delicate spring rose blossom.
Fallen ripe pear scented Cloudy Bay “Pelorus” 2005 ($48) has such tiny soft bubbles you’d think it was champagne. We tried it with cheese to see what flavours we’d get – with Kapiti Kikorangi we tasted sweet peach and pear spiked mountain water, while port wine cheddar gave us nut nougat and toasted almonds.
New: Mud House has released a selection of single vineyard pearlers under the Curio label. My pick of the bunch is Curio d’Auvergne Vineyard Wairau Valley Marlborough Gewurztraminer 2008 ($27.90). It smells so good you don’t want to stop sniffing the harmonious mix of musk rose, mango and cloves. On the palate it’s like sucking on turkish delight before it sets: luscious fruit flavours with silky texture made all the more interesting from barrel fermentation and wild yeast.
Bargain of the Week: Jacob’s Creek Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 2006 ($19.95) picked up a silver at the recent Liquorland Top 100. It’s all blackcurrents and raspberries on the fruit side, balanced by dark licoricey tannins and gravelly minerality. Wonderful velvety texture.
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