The wine of emperors
19/05/2010 3:43:00 p.m.
LAST week I attended a wine tasting to find myself in the company of emperors.
When Napoleon was on his deathbed, he asked for a glass of Klein Constantia “Vin de Constance”. I was lucky enough to be alive and kicking on Tuesday when I tried the 2004 vintage ($74.95, 500ml) at the “Serious South African Wines” tasting at Regional Wines.
This sweety is made from grapes left to shrivel on the vine, so flavours are mega-concentrated. There is no botrytis, though, so nothing to balance the cloying sweetness. Be prepared for syrupy peach-flavoured juice. It was a bit much for me, but if I were an emperor in serious decline (or had a sweeter tooth) maybe I’d be as big a fan as most at the tasting.
South Africa first imported vines from Europe in 1655. Four years later the first wine was produced. Now S. Africa makes over a billion litres of wine a year, making it the 14th biggest producer in the world. They have had to shake off a bad reputation, not only from years of apartheid but also from years of making clunky wine – dikvoet or ‘thick foot’ as it was described in Afrikaans.
Bordeaux blends now form the backbone of the Cape’s wine industry. One in particular stood out at this tasting. As one wine lover put it, the Kanonkop “Paul Sauer” 2006 ($49.95) “had me at hello”. Its bouquet is arresting with its floral notes and hints of icing sugar, followed in the mouth by vibrant, lush fruit.
Pinotage is S. Africa’s own invention, developed in 1925 when pinot noir was cross-pollinated with the French varietal cinsaut. We tried the Steytler Pinotage 2006 ($56.95), which has been a big hit in the UK, picking up the Decanter International Trophy for Best Single Red Varietal above £10. Mention of wine awards stimulated debate at our tasting over the pros and cons of wineries that craft wine especially to leap out and grab judges at wine shows. But the consensus was that regardless of its success, this pinotage is worth trying for its aromas of smoky leather and plums, along with mouth-filling flavours and lengthy finish.
Wine of the Week: Speaking of wine shows, Saint Clair came second to Villa Maria at this year’s Royal Easter Wine Show with seven gold medals. Not bad for a family owned and operated producer. Saint Clair Marlborough Chardonnay ($15-$17) is my best value wine of the week. It has buttery peach aromas, which develop into mandarins and apricots ripe as a holiday at the hydro-dams in Central Otago. Hokey pokey flavours segue into a powerful, yet graceful, pineapple-flavoured acid presence. Delicious with pork chops.
When Napoleon was on his deathbed, he asked for a glass of Klein Constantia “Vin de Constance”. I was lucky enough to be alive and kicking on Tuesday when I tried the 2004 vintage ($74.95, 500ml) at the “Serious South African Wines” tasting at Regional Wines.
This sweety is made from grapes left to shrivel on the vine, so flavours are mega-concentrated. There is no botrytis, though, so nothing to balance the cloying sweetness. Be prepared for syrupy peach-flavoured juice. It was a bit much for me, but if I were an emperor in serious decline (or had a sweeter tooth) maybe I’d be as big a fan as most at the tasting.
South Africa first imported vines from Europe in 1655. Four years later the first wine was produced. Now S. Africa makes over a billion litres of wine a year, making it the 14th biggest producer in the world. They have had to shake off a bad reputation, not only from years of apartheid but also from years of making clunky wine – dikvoet or ‘thick foot’ as it was described in Afrikaans.
Bordeaux blends now form the backbone of the Cape’s wine industry. One in particular stood out at this tasting. As one wine lover put it, the Kanonkop “Paul Sauer” 2006 ($49.95) “had me at hello”. Its bouquet is arresting with its floral notes and hints of icing sugar, followed in the mouth by vibrant, lush fruit.
Pinotage is S. Africa’s own invention, developed in 1925 when pinot noir was cross-pollinated with the French varietal cinsaut. We tried the Steytler Pinotage 2006 ($56.95), which has been a big hit in the UK, picking up the Decanter International Trophy for Best Single Red Varietal above £10. Mention of wine awards stimulated debate at our tasting over the pros and cons of wineries that craft wine especially to leap out and grab judges at wine shows. But the consensus was that regardless of its success, this pinotage is worth trying for its aromas of smoky leather and plums, along with mouth-filling flavours and lengthy finish.
Wine of the Week: Speaking of wine shows, Saint Clair came second to Villa Maria at this year’s Royal Easter Wine Show with seven gold medals. Not bad for a family owned and operated producer. Saint Clair Marlborough Chardonnay ($15-$17) is my best value wine of the week. It has buttery peach aromas, which develop into mandarins and apricots ripe as a holiday at the hydro-dams in Central Otago. Hokey pokey flavours segue into a powerful, yet graceful, pineapple-flavoured acid presence. Delicious with pork chops.
