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12 February 2012

Affordable Martinborough Pinot Noirs

Claudine Earley

14/07/2010 8:50:00 a.m.

LAST night I learned a new word, ‘pinosity’, as I huddled with 26 other pinotphiles around tables laden with Riedel glasses trying to keep our samples of Martinborough pinot noir warm as southerly winds howled over our heads.
My new favourite word was coined by pinot noir expert Alan Meadows, and describes everything good about pinot: the floral aromas, cherry flavours and velvety tannins. Achieving pinosity requires careful use of oak and perfectly ripe fruit.  Too ripe and the wine will be sweet and plummy, or suffer from the burn of too high alcohol if the sugar has been fermented out.
Our tasting was conducted blind, with wines poured from old school plastic hexagonal pub jugs so that our judgement would not be biased by personal preference.  
This tactic worked a treat as many were surprised by the wines that won by popular vote. Three out of four winners were from the Te Muna Road sub-region, 5 km south of the better known Martinborough Terrace vineyards.
Wine of the week: Kiritea Pinot Noir 2008 ($19 at Regional) comes from the first commercial plantings in Te Muna Road, and is the second label of John Douglas’ Te Hera Estate.  
Big names like Escarpment and Craggy Range have since followed him to the sub-region, acknowledging his wisdom and good taste. Tea rose, vanilla, bright berries and an underlying funky savouriness greet the nose, and it tastes nice too - cherries, tea and velvety tannins.
Julicher Estate ‘99 Rows’ Pinot Noir 2008 ($28) has already won 5 stars from Cuisine magazine, and a gold at last year’s Air N.Z. Wine Awards. It stood out with its buttery maraschino cherry nose, smooth cakey flavours, and long funky finish.  Sold out in most bottle stores, but available on wine lists around town.
A big rich monster of a wine, Craggy Range ‘Te Muna Road’ Pinot Noir 2008 ($36) was the crowd favourite.  Winemaker Adrian Baker crafts pinots from Otago too, including the famous ‘Calvert’, with which this compares favourably.  Noticeably nice florals and dark fruit aromas give way to mouth-filling dense cherry flavours and big tannins.
The one wine from outside Te Muna Road to impress at the tasting? Martinborough Vineyard ‘Te Tera’ Pinot Noir 2008 ($28). Another outstanding second label, it has pinosity written all over it: an amazingly fragrant nose and complex velvety palate.  Grab a bottle if you can find one.
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Cover Story

Best of Wellington 2011

Fringe Festival

Briefs

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    JOHN Wills has been appointed as interim chief executive of the Employers Chamber of Commerce (ECCC), effective immediately.

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    The first performance of  jazz musician Mike Nock’s choral work Land of the Long White Cloud will be sung by the Orpheus Choir at Soundings Theatre,  Te Papa, 18 February. It’s a free concert and only expected to last about 10minutes.

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  • Share the vision, free

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  • Swimming challenge

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    Participants have until April 30 to swim or aquajog 53 kilometres, the distance equivalent to doing a circuit of Lake Mead in Nevada.
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  • On your skates

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