TWENTY-five years ago, Cloudy Bay Sauvignon Blanc put New Zealand on the international wine map. Founding winemaker Kevin Judd arrived to take up his new job in 1985 to discover a winery without any vineyards, winery or equipment. So he did well to produce a wine that took the world by storm.
No one had ever tasted such herbaceous wine, with such fruit intensity. Kevin Judd’s wine has been praised as “New Zealand’s finest export since Sir Richard Hadlee”.
Judd has now moved on to set up his own highly acclaimed Greywacke winery. Meanwhile, Tim Heath and Nick Blampied-Lane have taken over the winemaking reigns and are maintaining his high standards in the winery’s latest releases.
Cloudy Bay Sauvignon Blanc 2010 ($30 on special at Glengarry) smells like the sea at first sniff and cries out for scallops. As the nose opens, the aromas for which Marlborough is famous come out: capsicum, gooseberries and orange blossom. The citrus theme continues onto the palate with its lively zesty flavours mingled with tropical fruit. Most impressive is the wine’s texture. So smooth from the addition of a dash of barrel fermented juice.
Some think it’s an abomination to oak savvy, but my panel disagreed unanimously. Cloudy Bay Te Koko Sauvignon Blanc 2007 ($45) is a sav with the texture of an elegant chard. Creamier than a herd of Dutch cows, it’s an elegant drop. We encountered layers of aromas including sherbet, rhubarb, ruby grapefruit, tangerine, and perfumed persimmon. Flavours are intense and integrated, with no obvious distinguishable fruit. Rather, it’s funky from yeasty fermentation complexities. Secondary character comes through with butter and caramel, then grapefruit pith. Enjoy this with friends who like to talk about wine.
The winery isn’t just famous for its sav. They make top-notch chardonnay, bubbles, gewurz, Riesling and pinot (gris and noir) too. Cloudy Bay Pinot Noir 2008 ($40) is fragrant with cherries, blackberries, and smoky leather. One of my tasters had a wave of nostalgia from the dried herb and charry oak aromas, which brought back childhood memories of lawnmowers and grass clippings. Chocolate kirsch cherries burst in the mouth. A fine wine to share with friends on special occasions.
Wine of the week: Now that we have a green mayor, we should really try to pick up our game. For those who are not big bike riders, there are other ways to reduce your impact on the environment, such as drinking organic wine. Villa Maria Private Bin Organic Merlot 2009 (RRP $20, but keep an eye out for it on special) is Villa’s first wine made from 100 percent organic grapes. It’s very approachable, with strawberry notes on the nose, rich plum flavours and gentle tannins. One for the upcoming BBQ season.