Who owns ‘New Zealand’ wine?
Claudine Earley
The sale last week of twelve Pernod Ricard wine labels to Lion Nathan got me thinking about the ownership of NZ wine. At first my parochial streak had me pleased that these wines made in NZ were being transferred from French to Kiwi ownership. Then my memory kicked in. These wines are not being repatriated. Lion Nathan used to be owned by Kiwis, but last year the Japanese brewing giant Kirin took over the company.
So, shortly the Japanese will add kiwi icons Lindauer, Corbans, and Saints to the already strong collection of NZ wines in which they already have interests, including Daniel LeBrun, Wither Hills and Martinborough Vineyard. Meanwhile, Pernod Ricard NZ will hold on to Brancott Estate (ex Montana), Church Road, Deutz and Stoneleigh.
There are pros and cons to overseas ownership. On the one hand, the big companies have loads of money to invest in winery improvements and new technology, as well as access to global distribution networks.
But is the more efficient production of wine and international exposure worth the cost? For on the other hand, wine can lose its special characters. Wine guru and TV funny man, Oz Clarke, worries that “as these great wine conglomerates stride across continents, it seems highly likely that local traditions will – for purely business reasons – be pared away, along with individuality of flavour.” This has already been alleged by leading wine writer Michael Cooper.
It will be interesting to see if Lion Nathan follows in the footsteps of Pernod Ricard, and continues to develop exciting new single-vineyard brands.
Wine of the week: At the tiny family-owned vineyard Ti Point on the Matakana Coast, an hour north of Auckland, Tracy Haslam grows the grapes with the help of her mother and grandmother. On the other side of the island, she crafts the wine in a Hawkes Bay winery. Her latest release Ti Point Rosé ($17 on special at Glengarry) is one for those who like their rosés dry and merlot - (rather than pinot-) based. A nose of strawberries primes you for a mouthful of watermelon, creamy in the front of the palate, with a clean lime finish. Bring on summer.
So, shortly the Japanese will add kiwi icons Lindauer, Corbans, and Saints to the already strong collection of NZ wines in which they already have interests, including Daniel LeBrun, Wither Hills and Martinborough Vineyard. Meanwhile, Pernod Ricard NZ will hold on to Brancott Estate (ex Montana), Church Road, Deutz and Stoneleigh.
There are pros and cons to overseas ownership. On the one hand, the big companies have loads of money to invest in winery improvements and new technology, as well as access to global distribution networks.
But is the more efficient production of wine and international exposure worth the cost? For on the other hand, wine can lose its special characters. Wine guru and TV funny man, Oz Clarke, worries that “as these great wine conglomerates stride across continents, it seems highly likely that local traditions will – for purely business reasons – be pared away, along with individuality of flavour.” This has already been alleged by leading wine writer Michael Cooper.
It will be interesting to see if Lion Nathan follows in the footsteps of Pernod Ricard, and continues to develop exciting new single-vineyard brands.
Wine of the week: At the tiny family-owned vineyard Ti Point on the Matakana Coast, an hour north of Auckland, Tracy Haslam grows the grapes with the help of her mother and grandmother. On the other side of the island, she crafts the wine in a Hawkes Bay winery. Her latest release Ti Point Rosé ($17 on special at Glengarry) is one for those who like their rosés dry and merlot - (rather than pinot-) based. A nose of strawberries primes you for a mouthful of watermelon, creamy in the front of the palate, with a clean lime finish. Bring on summer.
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