24 May 2012

Gruner Veltliner

Claudine Earley

8/12/2010 10:48:00 a.m.

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WAIMEA winemakers pride themselves in the diversity of varietals they produce, and of course the awards they win.
Their latest experiment is with Gruner Veltliner, a grape popular in Austria, Slovakia and the Czech Republic.
In Europe, Gruner Veltliner is considered a food-friendly variety that may exhibit flavours and aromas of citrus, peach, minerals or tobacco. It is usually drunk young and is sometimes made into a sparkling wine.
Waimea Gruner Veltliner ($24) has that white peach/pear aroma that can pop up on a pinot gris. This light and fruity aroma is enhanced by a touch of spice and a little alcohol heat on the nose.
In the mouth, it is “winey” and light up front, then has a burst of peach/tangerine at the edge of the tongue to end with a longish alcoholy pith finish.
While it was a little “hot” on its own, the Gruner Veltliner proved a good accompaniment to dumplings and chilli sauce on day one, and cheese, lettuce and tomato sandwiches on day two.
Definitely one to try at an early season picnic as it is relatively easy drinking, has a bit of depth and should be okay with almost any picnic food.
Wine of the week: Waimea Viognier 2009 ($19.90 at Glengarry) has a promising nose of apricot and spice. They say cardamom spice and, perhaps due to the power of suggestion, I have to agree. Not something I would normally sprinkle on my apricots, but a good combination here.
Flavourwise it is consistent with its nose – apricot and spice come through. In the mouth, however, these characters are joined by a mineral quality and a complex lees character (that’s the stuff at the bottom of a barrel) engendered by a bit of stirring while it was on its lees.
This lees stirring has probably also contributed to the pleasant texture of the wine. It is mouthfilling and creamy and stood up very well to a hugely flavoured pork chop with lashings of black pepper on it.
This is a nice wine. If you are not a viognier drinker, this is a good place to start. 
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