25 May 2012

Kaimoana Queen

9/02/2011 11:00:00 a.m.

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Rachel Taulelei helps bring the finest catch to Wellington tables.

Rachel Taulelei helps bring the finest catch to Wellington tables.

RACHEL Taulelei, of Ngati Raukawa and Ngati Huia iwi, is a Wellington woman thinking big. Taulelei is a director of economic development agency Grow Wellington, co-founder of City Market, and owner and operator of Yellow Brick Road - a seafood supply company that “works with fishermen and chefs, moving those who catch closer to those who cook”.
It’s not typical for women to head fishing companies, but she’s not alone in the industry.
“From Naida Glavish, one of the original Commissioners of Te Ohu Kaimoana, to the likes of Nikki Hunia who runs the factory for Leigh Fisheries, through to Caroline Anderson who fishes from her own boat out of Blenheim.”
Taulelei considers herself among great female company.

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How’d your working life come to revolve around fish?

When I was in the US I saw an inordinate amount of work going into the catching, harvesting and processing of our food and beverage products.  At the other end of the spectrum I saw chefs investing the same care and consideration.  What existed between the two ran the very real risk of disrupting the process – too many hands, too much time, and too many opportunities to diminish the integrity of our products. I felt sure there was a better way, that we could get product to market quicker and that seafood was the right place to start - as it’s really the hardest product you can work with.  Plus, who doesn’t love amazingly fresh seafood. My chosen path has made me very popular with my family.
What’s so good about Wellington food?
Wellington is an incredibly proximate city.  Everything is within a stone’s throw – art, theatre, restaurants, cafés, markets, bars, galleries, nature, and an enormous amount of national history. What integrates these is the people. We don’t have the iconic high impact appeal of Queenstown’s ranges or Rotorua’s cultural base, so we rely on executing the whole package. Food is a cornerstone to that.  There’s a seriousness to what we do, yet we’re without pretension. We have a primary industry and stellar wine country, but for me it’s the people who make our cuisine scene.  Some of the talent in this region is absolutely world class.  
What can we do to ensure the fish we eat is managed sustainably?  
Buyers should avoid trawl-caught fish, opting for long line (where practical to the species), day-boat caught species.  Ask your fishmonger where it comes from, how it was caught, who caught it, and when it was caught.  Look for the tell tale signs of freshness – clear and protruding eyes, bright red gills, and a firm, slimy skin as opposed to limp dry fish. Eat whole fish or at a bare minimum fish with the skin on – not the shapeless, unidentifiable fillets that find their way into our retail outlets. Also, try lesser known alternative species.  
If I were a fish, I’d be a
…………Porae.  It’s a real fisherman’s fish. When they get it they love it, but most of us have never even heard of it.  So it’s not super well known but once you’ve had it, you love it and you’ll never look back.
If I were sent to a desert island and could take five foods I would take …
Champagne, a pig, Meyer lemons, New Zealand extra virgin olive oil and Marlborough garlic.
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