I have a passion for blended wines, both red and white. We are obsessed in New Zealand with wines being “single varietal”. Basically, this means that if it doesn’t say something recognisable like “Sauvignon Blanc” or “Merlot” on the label, we just won’t reach for it on the shelf. This is a shame, because the best blended wines truly are greater than the sum of the parts.
I particularly enjoy the wines we produce here using the famous grapes of Bordeaux. The red grapes of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc , Malbec and Petit Verdot can truly sing when blended in careful balance. The special characteristics of each grape will enhance those of its blending partner(s) or soften less desirable attributes. This calls for great skill from the winemaker, and we should be truly proud of the fabulous Bordeaux-style red blends we are producing, particularly in Hawkes Bay and on Waiheke.  It’s not essential to have a lot of knowledge about the individual grape varieties that go into these wines, but I do feel that a greater understanding of how and why the wine has been composed in a certain way enhances my enjoyment. It’s very similar to the enjoyment of art or music!
Cabernet Sauvignon provides astringency and a tannic backbone to a blend, and is often typified by a blackcurrant or cassis aroma. Merlot is for generosity, and what I like to think of as an amount of cuddliness. Cabernet Franc, related to Cab. Sav., enhances the complexity of the bouquet with a spicy character, sometimes described as pencil shavings. Malbec brings a deep purple colour, red berry flavours and tannic grip. Petit Verdot also gives colour, lots of tannins and usually a tell-tale whiff of violets.
There are a few new products on the market, covering all price brackets. Here are a few.
Quail Lane The Cabernets 2008 (Cabernet Franc/ Cabernet Sauvignon / Merlot/ Malbec) – This Hawkes Bay number is exceptional value for money, and a real crowd pleaser. Plenty of spicy notes, as you’d expect from the amount of Cabernet Franc (cedar, “pencil shavings”), body and structure from the Cabernet sauvignon as well as some attractive tight cassis, all supported by the fleshiness of the Merlot. $18.50
Clearview “Two Pinnacles” Malbec Cabernet Sauvignon 2008 – This Malbec dominant wine from a deservedly well-regarded producer shows plum and berry fruits, lots of spice and a certain chocolate breadth. This really needs to be set aside for a while to show itself in its best light, or make sure you decant before serving. $32.00
Wine of the week - Cable Bay Merlot Malbec Cabernets 06 (Waiheke) – The red wines from Waiheke tend to be a bit more “funky”, perhaps a little more Old World in terms of certain aromas reminiscent of farm yards. I get plenty of old leather, ripe plums just on the verge of turning, smoke, a lift of vanilla and tannins that have integrated with age. $38.50