WHEN it comes to Pinot Noir, the first words on many people’s lips are Central Otago.The region has done a brilliant job of building its reputation for excellence and of branding itself, and now seems to be the ‘Gucci’ of Pinot Noir in New Zealand. Top dollar is required for the prestige of the region’s brand and people are willing to pay it.
It’s great to see such hard work rewarded, but we shouldn’t forget about the other regions that produce Pinot Noir. Wairarapa, Waipara and Marlborough also produce some excellent wines. Of the lot, Marlborough seems to be considered the poor cousin in all this, and it is increasingly popular to deride Marlborough Pinot Noir, but I think this is shortsighted. Some pretty mercenary Pinot Noirs have come out of Marlborough in the past. I’ve seen plenty of examples that demonstrate that Marlborough can produce Pinot of true depth and complexity.
 Pinot Noir is a grape that loves to mutate, and the result is many different ‘clones’ which are adapted to specific conditions and demonstrate different flavour profiles and characters. Pinot Noir clones that are suited to making sparkling wines may not make great Pinot Noir. In Marlborough it seems that the best, most complex and concentrated wines come from clay soils, often around the Waihopai Valley. The top quality producers believe (and I believe their wines prove) that the quality of their wine is determined by the soils and vineyard management. For these classy wines, the role of the winemaker is more that of the custodian than creator. They know and revere the special qualities of their place, and the wines speak with their own voice. As well-suited vines are maturing on great sites, coupled with careful winemaking, the results are very good Pinot Noir, often at very good prices. The following are Marlborough wines that I believe offer good value for money and are great examples of Pinot Noir’s true nature.
 Try the Clayridge Pinot Noir 07 for an exceptionally well priced wine showing classic black cherry, brambly spice and just the right amount of tannic grip, but also that lovely silky texture that makes Pinot Noir so attractive. $29.90
Two new releases are the Jackson Estate Vintage Widow Pinot Noir 09, so named because the winemaker’s family is often neglected during the labour intensive vintage period. This is a little less full-on than the previous vintage, more delicate in structure and showing refined black cherry fruit, a bit of smoke, savoury earthiness and some mocha characters. $39.90
Churton Pinot Noir 2009 is again a little lighter in weight than the last vintage and is engagingly spicy, with cedar and clove notes sitting above the cherry fruit and dark chocolate finish. $47.00