MID winter is the perfect time for red wine, so it’s no accident that this is when the Hawkes Bay Hot Red show is held. This is always an interesting tasting, but I must admit that some years the very thought of a room full of full-bodied red wines has prompted a throbbing in my temple even before a single drop has passed my lips! It was a relief, then, to see that for the first time white wines were included in the show. The show was a good opportunity to check out some of the 2009 premium red releases. It’s tipped as an excellent vintage that will be truly cellar-worthy. There were some excellent examples on offer, but I found myself beguiled by the white wines.
I spent quite a bit of time at the Clearview table, as these wines have been longtime favourites for me, and winemaker Tim Turvey is such a great personality. He always reminds me of a rockstar for some reason, and never fails to make me laugh! Clearview has a deserved reputation for its Chardonnay, and this year’s offerings were no exception. The Clearview Reserve Chardonnay 2009 is powerful stuff, but so well integrated as to be almost seamless. It’s all there - stonefruit, creamy oak, and gorgeous texture, and all presented with consummate poise. This is most definitely one to cellar and enjoy over the years to come. $47.00
Not to be forgotten is the Clearview Beachhead Chardonnay 2010. This is also fantastic Chardonnay that has cellaring potential, but is made in a slightly earlier drinking style. It presents with more fruit on the nose and palate than the Reserve, mingled with a mealy note. In the past I’ve matched this with homemade fishcakes with flecks of preserved lemon through it. This is outstanding value at $31.00.
Hawkes Bay can also produce some lovely Sauvignon Blancs that often show more tropical fruit characters and a lower acidity than their Marlborough counterparts. The Clearview Te Awanga Sauvignon Blanc 2010 has a gooseberry character as well as sweeter tropical fruit on the nose and a hint of smoke with a salty tang. The salty character could be as a result of the vineyard’s unique location right by the sea. Throughout there’s a minerality to the palate and refreshing, but never eyewatering acidity. Best of all, it’s reasonably priced at $24.00
So, Hawkes Bay isn’t just about red wine, and the whites aren’t just about Chardonnay. Get out there and try some of the other whites. Well worth your while, and well worth a bit of loving cellaring.