Summer of Riesling
Rebecca Taylor
I know I’ve banged on about Riesling, but that it’s a seriously under valued grape variety.
The neglect of Riesling is not just a Kiwi thing, it’s a problem around the world. The frustration felt by people in the wine industry is such that in 2008 Paul Grieco of Terroir Wine Bar in New York embarked on a campaign of Riesling evangelism that was unique and potentially risky. He announced that for the duration of that summer the only white wine that would be available by the glass was Riesling. Initially his customers thought he was joking, but the multitude of styles in which Riesling can be made must have satisfied enough people that he didn’t lose his entire customer base. Instead, people’s eyes were opened to the pleasures of Riesling, and the idea spread. As more retailers, restaurants and wine bars followed his example, a movement was born that is known as the Summer of Riesling.
We have embraced this movement, and the New Zealand Summer of Riesling runs until the end of March. Nothing as radical as the Riesling only policy at Terroir is happening in Wellington, but there will be a greater opportunity to buy different Rieslings by the glass in participating restaurants and wine bars. A number of my favourite places are involved, including Vivo, Arbitrageur and Ancestral. See www.summerofriesling.co.nz.
I picked up a few Rieslings to try the other day, and scored an excellent deal on Kahurangi Mt Arthur Riesling 2009. This is the last of the vintage, and so I picked it up at Centre City Wines & Spirits at a ridiculous $13.99. The wine is doing well with a little bit of bottle age, and has lively acidity, lemon, lime and a bit of tart grapefruit overlaid with some florals and a drizzle of honey.
I also treated myself to a bottle of Pyramid Valley Lebecca Riesling 2006. This is a sweeter style from an exclusive producer, and is unfiltered and unrefined, leaving the finished product not so much cloudy, but not brilliantly clear. More honeyed notes to this wine and an alluring creaminess of texture. Lemon curd, some nuttiness developing and a finish of mandarins. This is only 8.5% abv, which is handy because it’s so delicious you’ll want to drink a lot of it! I picked this up for $29.99, which is a real bargain, as you normally wouldn’t see it for less than high thirties.
The neglect of Riesling is not just a Kiwi thing, it’s a problem around the world. The frustration felt by people in the wine industry is such that in 2008 Paul Grieco of Terroir Wine Bar in New York embarked on a campaign of Riesling evangelism that was unique and potentially risky. He announced that for the duration of that summer the only white wine that would be available by the glass was Riesling. Initially his customers thought he was joking, but the multitude of styles in which Riesling can be made must have satisfied enough people that he didn’t lose his entire customer base. Instead, people’s eyes were opened to the pleasures of Riesling, and the idea spread. As more retailers, restaurants and wine bars followed his example, a movement was born that is known as the Summer of Riesling.
We have embraced this movement, and the New Zealand Summer of Riesling runs until the end of March. Nothing as radical as the Riesling only policy at Terroir is happening in Wellington, but there will be a greater opportunity to buy different Rieslings by the glass in participating restaurants and wine bars. A number of my favourite places are involved, including Vivo, Arbitrageur and Ancestral. See www.summerofriesling.co.nz.
I picked up a few Rieslings to try the other day, and scored an excellent deal on Kahurangi Mt Arthur Riesling 2009. This is the last of the vintage, and so I picked it up at Centre City Wines & Spirits at a ridiculous $13.99. The wine is doing well with a little bit of bottle age, and has lively acidity, lemon, lime and a bit of tart grapefruit overlaid with some florals and a drizzle of honey.
I also treated myself to a bottle of Pyramid Valley Lebecca Riesling 2006. This is a sweeter style from an exclusive producer, and is unfiltered and unrefined, leaving the finished product not so much cloudy, but not brilliantly clear. More honeyed notes to this wine and an alluring creaminess of texture. Lemon curd, some nuttiness developing and a finish of mandarins. This is only 8.5% abv, which is handy because it’s so delicious you’ll want to drink a lot of it! I picked this up for $29.99, which is a real bargain, as you normally wouldn’t see it for less than high thirties.
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